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Spinfuel eMagazine ProTank 3 Dual Coil First Look Review!
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Kangertech ProTank 3 Dual Coil Review

REVIEW: ProTank 3: Dual Coil

The newest iteration of the Kanger ProTank has arrived on the scene and all day yesterday, last night, and this morning I’ve been running it through the paces in order to find out if the newest ProTank might be something I could actually use. This particular ProTank has two strikes against it coming in, but in an effort to be fair I was determined to look at it, as lawyers say, “when viewed in light most favorable to the Defendant”. The defendant in this case being the Kanger, just in case that wasn’t clear.

Two Strikes?

These two strikes are of a personal nature, and should be viewed that way when reading this review. We all have our favorite vape gear and vape styles. The ProTanks have had a bit of a ‘metallic’ taste to me, and I’m not that fond of dual coils, except for the new iClear 30S. In addition, these short-wick atomizers do not deliver the best flavor, for me a long-wick clearomizer or a good cartomizer has always delivered the best flavor from my favorite eJuice. Will the ProTank 3 Dual Coil change this? Yes, somewhat.

The ProTank 3

Packaging: Kanger loves deluxe packaging and the ProTank 3 is no exception. If you look carefully at the photos in this review you can see a slight reflection of my hand reflecting off the sturdy hard plastic cover that serves to keep all the pieces held firmly in place. The square cardboard box is once again used for the ProTank 3, making the presentation as ‘deluxe’ as ever. Spinfuel eMagazine ProTank 3 Dual Coil First Look Review!

Dual Coil atomizers are biggest change to the ProTank, along with modifications to the post, the drip tip, and a few others. The coil heads are not interchangeable with other ProTanks, the stem is a bit longer preventing you from using a single coil in the ProTank 3 or the dual coils in the ProTank I, II, mini, and UniTank. Makes sense to me, otherwise why come out with a new tank when they could have released dual coil heads for the previous ProTanks.

Ohms – Voltage – Power – The coils are rated at 2ohms (expect 1.8-2.2ohm), and are etched into the heads. The total resistance of the 2.0-ohm dual coil is 2.0ohms, but the resistance of either coil it contains is 4ohms. Each coil is actually 4.0ohms, individually, together they do not equal 8.0ohm, as some may think. God I hate math!

Math: 
A 2.0ohm atomizer hitting at 3.7V would be drawing ‘3.7v/2.0ohm=2 amps’. But the single coil  burns at 3.7v^2ohm / 2.0 = 6.84 Watts. Each coil of a dual coil 2.0ohm atomizer is burning at (3.7^2/2.0) / 2 = 3.4 watts.  This is simply splitting the power between the two coils. I used 3.7v in the math since using the ProTank on a non-variable voltage battery yields these kinds of results. The better choice is obviously a variable voltage or variable wattage device that can output 4.6v or more, or at least 6 watts. Rather than relay ever configuration I went with the standard.  Did I mention how much I hate math?

A 2.0ohm atomizer could easily range between 1.8ohms and 2.2ohms, so if you want to be super accurate you might want to put the coil heads on a meter and find out. I did not do that, I assumed 2.0ohms and found the best result for Harvest Moon Tobacco eJuice from Rocket Fuel Vapes to burn best at 4.8v on my ProVari. Using the 2nd coil I cleaned out the ProTank, filled it with The Plume Room’s Creamy Chai Latte (currently under review) and found 4.9v to be the ultimate sweet spot. Your mileage may difference of course, depending on which battery you use, which eJuice, and which PG/VG ratio you choice…not to mention your personal preference.

Draw, Vapor, Flavor

Interestingly, the first battery I chose to test the ProTank 3 was a Vision Spinner. The reason was it was the battery I was using at the time. I was toying around with an air controller I had gotten from MyVaporStore, an excellent and inexpensive little ring that screws over the outside threads and works to block off air holes. Before I popped on the ProTank 3 I removed the air controller so I would get an accurate ‘draw’. To my surprise the draw was very, very airy. A huge disappointment set in. Then I put the air controller back on and the draw stiffened up quite a bit.

Looking at how flush the ProTank 3 sat against the Spinner I made the decision to grab as many different batteries as I could and try them all out. With varying degrees of success I discovered that my purple ProVari provided the best draw, sitting very flush to the ProVari the ProTank’s air holes directly above the threads were virtually plugged up due to the top edge of the ProVari sitting completely flush against the tank. If you jump in and buy a ProTank 3 just beware of the airy draw on some batteries and take appropriate action.

Since it doesn’t do much good to talk about vapor production with an airy draw I’ll limit my comments to using the ProVari. My chosen voltage setting for the ProVari + ProTank 3 was 4.7v. This setting produced a nice warm vapor (from a bottom coil too!), and the most flavor. Any higher and it began to get too hot, any lower and the vapor production lessened, as well as the flavor.

With a proper draw in place the vapor production is on par with other ProTanks. Let’s face it; the ProTank is never going to win a vapor production award. The vapor was good, maybe even better than good, but then so are many less expensive tanks, clearomizers and even some cartomizers. I wasn’t unhappy with the vapor production; I just wasn’t impressed. The throat hit, on the other hand, was quite good.
Flavor, as I suspected, was a bit muted. But, unlike other ProTanks, it wasn’t as muted as I had experienced before. In this case I was impressed, not so much by an abundant overflow of flavor, but rather because the flavor was somewhat close to what I’m used to with long-wick clearomizers, my preferred system.

When I watch videos on YouTube the reviewer takes huge drags of whatever he or she is reviewing. I don’t know about you, but I seldom, if ever, vape that way. When I review something like the ProTank I will take the longest drag possible, and the shortest, and just about every device I’ve ever used has produced a lot of vapor when I maxed out the drag. The real test, for me anyway, is the vapor production and flavor from a ‘common’ drag. My common drag is most always a 4-second drag, sometimes less. When I judge a device’s ability to produce vapor to my liking it is with a 4-second drag. The ProTank 3, at 4-seconds, is ‘average’. Sometimes ‘average’ is good enough.

 Buying Advice

The ProTank 3: Dual Coil has an MSRP of $19.99. Some vendors will sell it at that price; some will sell it a bit less.

Knowing the issue with the draw, and if it’s not fixed before it becomes widely available, then I can only recommend buying it if you can fix the draw problem with something like the air controller mentioned above, or if you vape with a ProVari. Perhaps, if you like the ProTank already this could be the final rationalization you need to pick up a ProVari if you don’t already have one.

We will update this review as vendors we work with make their decisions on whether to sell it or not, and for how much they will ask their customers to pay for it. You can bet MyVaporStore, Koko Vapes, and SmokenJoey will stock it, ‘when’ being the only variable.

For myself, this is the first ProTank I’ll keep, the rest having been given to Tom or Jason or Julia. It does draw stiff enough on my own ProVari, and vapor production is good enough, and the ‘flavor’ of my juices is good enough. I can’t say that I would buy additional ProTank 3’s, but I might. That said, I have a Kanger UniTank review coming up in a couple of days, so they may wind up fighting for my vaping budget.

John Manzione

About The Author

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13 Comments

  1. Shane

    It’s obvious you hate math, and you should not be giving people a math lesson in your articles because you’re dead wrong. You don’t split the difference when calculating the power output of dual coils, it doesn’t work that way.
    Since they’re wired in parallel rather than series you calculate the power output as if it were one coil. So what you get is this.

    W=V^2/R so in this case 3.7^2/2=6.845 watts, the same as if you were running a single coil with an impedance of 2 ohms.

    In either case the total power output is the same and the amount of current needed to power the circuit is the same. Running this setup with 6 volts as you suggest would give a total power output of 18 watts and is going to burn both your juice and your coils PDQ. You shouldn’t be discussing ohm law unless you actually understand the terms of the equation, i.e. power output, current draw and voltage which you clearly do not. I’m not trying to be condescending, I’m really not, it’s just that the advice you gave probably caused a lot of people to over power their atty and throw out a perfectly good device because they couldn’t figure out why it kept burning coils.

    Reply
  2. ant

    This thing is utter garbage. Leaks and gurgles like crazy. There are four separate parts that are screwed together protected by crappy silicon washers. “Oh they can’t be too loose or too tight!” all the websites say, but frankly who’s got the time. If it’s that crucial, they ought to ship the damn thing with a torque wrench and a tolerances table. I’ve spent more time fiddling about with this and rinsing eliquid out of my mouth than I have vaping.

    Reply
    1. bill

      The protanks ar all basically the same, aswell as the evod, just minor changes. With all the tanks the leak is usually where the wick meets the coil. Thick juice requires less wick, while thin juice requires more wick material. If your juice is seeping near the glass tighten the metal retaining rings (below drip tip and above the base) until they stop, no more no less or you will probably have to replace them. I own 3 as well as evods and mt3’s’ an the like, and never had to replace any gaskets. I have only had to replace insulator gromets due to dry burning home made coils with resistance wire. My personal favorate is 5/64th contact coil with 9 wraps and loose wick cotton wick runs ~10.88w (single protank coil head on protank 3 with air holes drilled) hope this helps.

      Reply
  3. Andrew

    The first Protank I tried was version 1, which yielded muted flavor, metallic taste and mediocre vapor production. I skipped the 2nd one and bought the 3, hoping dual coil would help. It helped the vapor production but the flavor is still poor. The Smoktech T-dux 2.0 BDC is far superior. Problem with any BDC is they don’t seem to last long before they get gunked up. A dual coil tank carto is still better at flavor, vapor, and longevity. I get 2 days out of a BDC, but 5-7 days out of a carto.

    Reply
  4. jonakin

    I love my protank 3 mini. It produces a lot of vape and nice throat hit, also the few flavors I’ve tried in it (strawberry cheesecake, butterscotch, and French vanilla) has been conserved. The only complaint I had with it was that the 1.8 coil that it came with burnt out in only a day of use (about 500 hits) I switched it out to a 2 ohm coil and have not had a problem with it. I vape mostly with an itaset vv and MVP, so as long as you know how to adjust your battery accordingly, most should enjoy the protank 3 mini…have not tried the regular protank 3 yet I’ve ordered several though. They use the same new dual coil just different size tanks…also the mini has a very low profile if used with a smaller drip tip, great for concealment. It has also survived a 12′ drop to concrete. Not a scratch or leek…my go-to tank right now is still the I clear 30s…just because of the bigger tank and the top fill feature..

    Reply
  5. ray186

    Too me the Protank 3’s draw and vapor were comparable to the Protank 2. The one thing that I have noticed is that Kanger seems to have eliminated the gurgling that happens when a tube floods. 3 tanks in and still not a problem. With a new coil on a Protank 2, it would always start at about half a tank. It’s most Probably the redesign of the coils. I’m happy with my purchase and am looking forward to the delivery of the Mini Protank 3’s that I have recently ordered.

    Reply
  6. Melissa Hayden

    Thanx for the review. It is nice to see a review on this product, as I just purchased one. I can’t wait to see how well it works for me. I’ve been using Kanger T3-S s and am finally ready for an ungrade to my vaping. We’ll see how it goes! :)

    Reply
  7. Ray186

    I just ordered one of these yesterday for less than you would think you would be able to get it for. (Open Group Buy) I now know what to expect, but I’m hoping it’s not as bad as Lou says it is.

    Reply
  8. Lou

    There’s just a very huge problem with this junk I bought: the coil won’t stand sufficient power.

    Pretty much all brand new Protank 3 coils I tested were at 2.1ohm. You recommend 4.8V to 4.9V, which then yelds 11W to 11,5W. I tested it on my VW mods (SVD an Vamo), and indeed had a rather satisfying vape at ~10W (that would be 4.6V on a VV mod).

    Well, thing is after 1 or 2 tanks of HOL Chivalry, the coil is so gunked up no amount of putting it in vodka, or using a 100W ultrasonic cleaner, or even mere dry burning will get rid of that damned gunk – not even on the upper coil (let alone the one burried underneath it).

    Now check on the Protank site: they recommend setting such a resistance at 3.5V, ie 6W…! :

    This is ridiculous. And stupid. As it is much too low. Protank 3 may be able to give a satisfying vape just setting it up right off the box, but at a satisfying wattage, you barely get one day of vape out of a 2€ dual coil that you cannot even rebuild or even clean. There’s only one decent conclusion out of it: Protank 3 are worthless pieces of junk. Too big to get on an ego battery that wouldn’t be powerful enough anyway, too fragile at proper wattages on mods.

    Really, I’m completely disgusted, and quite pissed at anyone who ever had anything nice to say about that worthless clearo. The only good thing out of it is that Kangertech pushed me towards RBAs, which I quite enjoy. But I sure won’t ever be buying anything anymore from these degenerates.

    tldr: don’t buy a Protank 3; it’s worth nothing at all

    Reply
  9. snowsnee

    Protank 1 2013 – Protank 3 – Found that cooler vapes Protank1. With 1 coil OK.
    Learning curve for me is 2 coils for me Protank 3 warm vapes. The Protank 3, I Tried 4.9 (VOLTS) OK warmer than 4.7 (VOLTS) both OK . Thou I took up to 6.0 (VOLTS) still fine on my SLB V V2 on my battery 1200 mah.
    Protank 3 uses a lot of juice twice as much 2 coils. I noticed warmer vapes no leaks or popping then in my Protank 1.

    I think in time Protank 3 will be OK when people get used it ( lots of vaper). If I want save juice 1 coil Protank 2.
    The air draw is fine make sure you can use the closed ring (with out slits) included-when vapping it draws air up for correct air flow.

    Sorry for its long time for my thoughts (ME) 8 years before I did any reviews.

    David

    Reply
  10. Ted

    This is a really great review with nice details and comparisons. I think I got a pretty good feel on what to expect from the Protank 3 and how I, or my wife would receive it. One of the biggest problems the wifey-pooh has with vaping is that she is an endurance swimmer and will burn up a coil in a couple of days because of her lung capacity. So, draw, ohms, and volts are critical.

    Reply
  11. Xech

    Thanks for this review! I had a very airy experience with my Protank 2 also, prompting me to move to 1.5 ohm. After using a KSD Kmax instead of Vision Spinner, I get a much better draw and nice production. I’ll have to try out this new dual-coil variant and verify my draw is still tight enough on the Kmax.

    Reply

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